Plants are a rich source of a wide variety of bioactive compounds that can be used for the preparation of cosmetics. Natural cosmetics with plant components such as vitamins, polyphenols, and alkaloids have become more and more popular. Alkaloids are important secondary metabolites in plants. They are known to possess therapeutic properties. Alkaloids can be used in the production of tonics, creams, lotions, face and hair masks, compresses for skin problems with numerous inflammations, and discoloration and antiaging products, as well as for reducing the formation of cellulitis. Alkaloids are also used in the production of ampoules for cosmetologists and aesthetic medicine doctors. However, at higher doses, they may exhibit toxic properties. Several studies have been carried out in evaluation of the activity of alkaloids from various plants for their use in cosmetics. This review describes alkaloids (caffeine, capsaicin, berberine, piperine, spilanthol, and anatabine) derived from various plants that are used in cosmetics, as well as their reported activities.

Unsaponifiable compounds are an integral part of vegetable butters and oils. Their composition is typically complex, and includes terpenic and aliphatic compounds, waxes, tocopherols and tocotrienols, phospholipids, and phenolic compounds.

Although several commercial moisturizers are available in the market, the continued role of pharmaceutical compounding has been still felt in dry skin management. This study aimed to evaluate the effect of a ureabased compounded moisturizer on barrier function, compared with a similar commercial product. Thirty volunteers with a mean age of 36.15 ± 9.55 years (range 21-56 years) and dry skin were recruited in two groups, one group to apply 5% urea containing hydrophilic petrolatum and the other 10% urea containing hydrophilic petrolatum. In each cohort, the upper parts of right and left forearms were randomly assigned for twice a day application of commercial or compounded products. Whereas the right lower forearm was assigned for application of a cream-based formulation, the left lower one served as the control site and with application of no topical product. Biophysical assessments [transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, friction coeffi cient, pH, and surface lipids], were performed before intervention, at 1 and 4 h after single application, and at 24 h and 1 week twice daily application. In both groups, commercial and compounded moisturizers showed an appropriate and comparable effect on skin barrier function compared with creambased formulation and no treatment area. However, commercial products led to better improvement in TEWL, 4 h after single application in both groups (p-value = 0.04). In case of 10% urea base formulation, the rate of increase in skin hydration was also signifi cantly higher for a commercial emollient than a compounding product (57.48 ± 11.23 vs. 50.59 ± 11.42, p-value = 0.02). Commercial formulation led to higher acceptability and better improvement in the skin barrier function after single application, probably because of the influence of excipients. The present study did not find sufficient added value for cream-based pharmacy product relative to commercial one and suggests to be replaced in a similar condition.

There are increasing demands for cosmetic emulsions with natural active components such as plant extracts because of their myriad benefits. Quality of cosmetic emulsions may be affected by distribution and storage processes, which can lead to peroxidation of lipid components. Lipid peroxidation results in undesirable alterations in efficacy, texture, and appearance of the cosmetic product, thus indicating a need to find a safe and potent compound to be added in products to postpone oxidation processes. In that sense, the current article gives an overview of parameters influencing oxidative stability of emulsions, as well as methods for assessing the oxidative stability. Emphasis is given to the usage of plant extracts rich in phenolics for improving oxidative stability of cosmetic emulsions. Application of plant extracts in cosmetic emulsion is promising because of their significant antioxidant properties which may delay lipid peroxidation during storage. Plant species are a valuable source of biologically active compounds that might be exploited in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

The background of this article is to develop formulations consisting of natural raw materials that are effective in diaper rash by taking advantage of the medicinal properties of zinc oxide, natural oils, and beeswax. The purpose of this research was to determine the appropriate amounts of the constituents of the formulation and to determine the optimum formulation by comparing the margin of safety (MoS), and microbiological and physicochemical properties of the best formulation. For this purpose, parameters such as pH, rheological behavior, hydrophilic and lipophilic balance (HLB), zeta potential, and polydispersity index were analyzed and evaluated to determine the optimum formulation. Besides, microbiological reproduction and 3-month stability studies of the developed product were carried out, and it has been proven that the developed product maintains both microbiological and stability properties throughout its shelf life. Furt hermore, whether each raw material used in the selected optimum formulation remained within MoS values was evaluated according to exposure doses in the literature. Whether it maintains the desired properties throughout the shelf life was evaluated by stability studies. In this article, eight different zinc oxide-based formulations for preventing diaper rash were developed, and their physicochemical properties were examined to optimize cream formulations. baby barrier cream (BBC)-8 was chosen as the ideal formula by comparing all the parameters obtained as a result of the analysis. As a result of the optimization studies of the BBC-8 formulation, the pH value was 7.2, the viscosity property was pseudoplastic-type flow, the particle size was 533.2 nm ± 6.93, and the zeta potential was -30.9 mV ± 0.72. The theoretical safety assessment of each constituent has been made according to the European Union Cosmetics Directives. According to the calculations made on each raw material in BBC-8 according to the directives, the MoS value was found to be more than 230. For the stability studies, no microbiological growth was observed at the end of the 3-month stability studies at 25 and 40°C. In terms of the development of future natural cosmetic product formulations and the defi nition of "natural formulation," it gives hope to prepare a safer cosmetic product for baby rash creams that do not contain preservatives, perfumes, and dyes and consists of natural oils and zinc oxide.

Make-up accessories may be subjected to bacterial contamination due to their contact with many surfaces, including the client's skin. Disinfection prevents the spread of infection, but the capacity to eliminate microorganisms varies among disinfection methods. Little is known about disinfection in beauty salons; therefore, we aimed to compare the effectiveness of disinfectants for reusable make-up applicators. We tested reusable make-up applicators (natural brush, synthetic brush, and sponge) with disinfectants (bactericidal soap, 70% ethanol, and Hydro Sept solution). The number of microorganisms present before and after disinfection using the plate method was assessed. In comparison to water, bactericidal soap reduced the number of bacterial colonies. There were 418 versus 83 colonies in natural brush samples, 1,162 versus nine colonies in synthetic brush samples, and 617 versus three colonies in sponge samples. Ethanol eliminated 100% of bacterial growth. Disinfection was more effective on applicators used for dry products (natural brush) than for wet products (sponge, synthetic brush). We conclude that disinfection is a complex process and depends on the type of make-up applicator being disinfected and the type of cosmetics being used. Further research on the selection of appropriate disinfection procedures for individual applicants and for those who prepare makeup is needed.

The outer pericarps of Lecythis pisonis Camb. are by-products with a high content of antioxidant substances. The goal of the present study was to analyze the incorporation of L. pisonis pericarp extract in an all-natural formulation. Physical-chemical and organoleptic characteristics and Challenge tests were evaluated before and after the stability test of the cosmetic formulation. The instability of the formulation increased with the increase of the concentration of the extract. The physical-chemical and organoleptic parameters did not present alterations after the stability test. The extract of the outer pericarp of L. pisonis seems to be compatible with the cream formulation. However, the concentration should be analyzed to not interfere with the stability of the product. The natural formulation developed is under the legal requirements of the National Agency of Sanitary Monitoring of Brazil (Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária), presenting an efficient conservation system.

The ingredients of cosmetic products are the mixture of chemical substances derived from natural or synthetic sources. The substances are used as either active (functional) or excipient (additional) ingredients. The source of origin of the ingredients is a critical point for the determination of halal status. Halal is an Arabic word that means things or actions that are permitted by the Islamic law. A halal product can be interpreted as something permissible for consumption by Muslims. Thus, the objective of this study was to understand the critical points for the differences between halal and general cosmetics, and their classifi cations. This study also identifies issues related to the safety of cosmetic ingredients that may affect the halal status of a cosmetic product. The method used was document and content analyses. The main documents that were analyzed include Malaysian Standard MS 2634:2019, Manual Procedure for Malaysia Halal Certification issued by the Department of Islamic Development Malaysia or Jabatan Kemajuan Islam Malaysia (JAKIM), and Guidelines for the Control of Cosmetic Products issued by the National Pharmaceutical Regulatory Agency under the Ministry of Health of Malaysia. This study finding describes four critical points of differences, namely, (i) ingredient, (ii) processing, (iii) safety, and (iv) ethics and responsibility. The classification of ingredients is based on the origin of ingredients, and the safety aspect can assist in the determination of halal status. This study suggested the integration between the origin of ingredients, and the safety and ethical aspects in the evaluation of halal cosmetic to better describe the practical aspect of halal-tayyib in cosmetics. The integration of safety and halal, and ethics and responsibility are suggested to better describe the practical aspect of halal-tayyib in cosmetics.

This study was performed to investigate the application of pluronic lecithin organogel (PLO gel) in cosmetics as a topical drug delivery system. PLO gel was known as transdermal drug delivery systems. It has a very interesting system, owing to their biocompatibility; their amphiphilic nature, facilitating dissolution of various drug classes; and their permeation enhancement properties. We realized that PLO gel has a critical shortcoming of flowability at low temperatures to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. To improve this drawback, this study aimed to find an appropriate quantity of three main compositions of PLO gel, including aqueous phase (poloxamer 407 and water), polyol phase (PEG-400), and oil phase (lecithin and oil), and applied an experimental design using the response surface methodology (RSM). We assessed the elapsed time change by temperature in each PLO gel formulation, observed the morphology of PLO gel using field emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM), and determined the gelation point by using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Rheology measurements to assess viscoelastic properties were determined by using a rheometer, and skin permeation efficiency was assessed by diffusion system. It was confirmed that three main factors (hydrogenated lecithin, PEG-400, and poloxamer 407) of PLO gel should be balanced without flowability even in cold temperature. Through the RSM, it was assumed that the most effective ingredient was PEG-400 at PLO gel formulation and physical properties. The PLO gel formulation (hydrogenated lecithin 5.0%, PEG-400 20.0%, and poloxamer 407 15.0%) was evaluated as the most suitable formulation for use in cosmetics due to its viscosity and elasticity results. The shape was observed through FE-SEM, and it was confirmed that the PLO gel forms a polymeric bicontinuous microemulsion structure. Regarding the applicability of PLO gel in cosmetics, we verified that PLO gel can be used in a delivery system for active substances. The study findings suggest that PLO gel can be used as one of the ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation trigger human skin reaction, which can result in erythema, photoaging, and/or skin cancer. Sunscreens play an important role against the negative effects of UV radiation on the human skin. However, they should satisfy certain criteria, with the main one being photostability, to avoid the formation of health-threatening reactive intermediates. It has to be kept in mind, however, that photo-stable UV filters have the undesirable propensity to transfer energy to molecular oxygen and generate the very reactive singlet oxygen. They should also be well tolerated, while at the same time, they should not permeate into the skin and cause toxic effects. Thus, there is an ongoing need to develop effective and safe non-penetrating sunscreen formulations. The search for innovative active substances, efficacious combinations, and the design of vehicles or carriers has led to the implementation of advanced delivery systems. This study intended to review the commonly used UV radiation thwarting agents (organic and inorganic UV filters), compile the relevant toxicity studies, evaluate their margin of safety, and assess the current situation on innovative sunscreen formulations.

Tinctures are alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solutions prepared from vegetable or chemical substances. The concentration of the solute varies up to a maximum of 50%, e.g., vanilla tincture. Tinctures are very useful in the perfume industry because they contain ethanol, which can dissolve molecules such as fragrant molecules, and consequently form hydroalcoholic formulations together. Recently, we have shown that nanostructures exist in the monophasic water-ethanol-citronellol system, and it is therefore a question whether such nanostructures exist in a system where a perfume molecule of citral is present as the oil component instead of citronellol. In this study, the single-phase region was mapped conductometrically and then measured by Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) and UV/Vis spectroscopy to determine the presence of nanostructures similar to classical microemulsions.

Taro mucilage, a hydrocolloid present in the rhizome of Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott, was extracted and characterized by infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy, thermal analysis, and proximal composition. In addition, cosmetic formulations based on extracted mucilage were developed and studied. The mucilage presented a semicrystalline structure with high thermal stability, the presence of granules along its surface area, and good emulsifying activity. High physical-chemical stability was also found in the mucilage and the cosmetic formulations during storage. All cream samples presented pseudoplastic behavior, with a flow behavior index lower than 1, which is a desirable characteristic for cosmetics, as it improves its applicability. The mucilage demonstrates potential for application in cosmetic products, and its commercial use as an ingredient in cosmetics could be a strategic tool for the creation of a new product chain and adding value to the culture of Colocasia0 esculenta.

The objective of this work was to identify if low levels of redox metals such as copper would accelerate color formation on hair and to understand the consequent impact on initial color formation and color fade. Kinetics of color formation with oxidative dyes in solution in the presence of varying concentrations of copper ions were assessed via imaging and color measurements. Color uptake on hair and color fade were measured with a spectrophotometer, and copper levels in hair were measured with inductively coupled plasma atomic spectroscopy after hair digestion. In this work, the role of redox metal ions such as copper and iron on accelerating rates of oxidative dye formation was demonstrated. Kinetics of dye formation were measured in solution for three dye couples-p-phenylene diamine (PPD) plus resorcinol, PPD plus 5-amino-2-methylphenol (AHT), and 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole sulfate (HDAP) plus AHT- in a solution that also contained ammonium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide at pH 10. Low levels of copper were added at a concentration range from 0.01 μg/g to 0.1 μg/g and the rate of color formation measured over 2 h. All th ree dye couples showed signifi cant color acceleration that increased with increasing levels of copper. A mechanism where initial oxidation of primary intermediate PPD or HDAP is accelerated is proposed. This mechanism is demonstrated to become important when trace levels of copper are in hair and a hair colorant added. Color formation is accelerated outside versus inside hair, and ultimately, color uptake is reduced after the colorant is rinsed off hair. Noticeable color fade versus the starting hair color is also increased. This work provides evidence for the role of copper ions in color formation in hair and strategies to reduce copper levels in hair using a chelant such as histidine in a shampoo or conditioner before coloring.

Scalp hair is a universal human characteristic, and a wide range of hair shape and color variations exists. Although differences in human scalp hair shape are visually apparent, the underpinning molecular insights are yet to be fully explored. This work reports the determination of differences at the protein level between two distinct groups of hair shape: very straight samples versus very curly hair samples. An in-depth highresolution liquid-chromatography mass spectrometry proteome analysis study was performed on hair samples from 50 individuals (pooled in 10 × 5 samples) with very curly hair and 50 subjects with very straight hair (pooled in 10 × 5 samples) to decipher differences between the two experimental groups at the protein level. Our results demonstrate that a distinction between the two experimental groups (very straight vs. very curly) can be made based on their overall protein profiles in a multivariate analysis approach. Further investigation of the protein expression levels between these two groups pinpointed 13 unique proteins which were found to be significantly different between the two groups, with an adjusted p-value < 0.05 and a fold change of more than two. Although differences between the very curly and the very straight hair sample groups could be identified, linkage between population differences and curl phenotype is currently unknown and requires further investigation.

Colorants for cosmetics appear to be more strictly regulated than any other cosmetic ingredients. Most countries have adopted a positive regulatory system for colorants used in cosmetics. Although there have been many reports on colorants that are used in food products from regulatory perspectives, reports on colorants used in cosmetic products have been limited. The objective of this report is to provide different countries' regulatory requirements and to encourage the cosmetic industry to export products in compliance with global regulations through a comparative analysis of cosmetic colorant regulatory systems in major countries. We first provide an overview of cosmetic colorant regulatory frameworks of the European Union, the United States, China, and Korea. Then the cosmetic colorants were divided into three sectors: synthetic, inorganic, and natural. Each chapter describes the colorants' general characteristics and explains the regulatory differences. Additionally, synthetic colorant labeling with a different nomenclature system is discussed.