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Hydrophilic and lipophilic moisturizers have similar penetration profiles but different effects on SC water distribution in vivo.
Exp Dermatol. 2009 Nov; 18(11):954-61.ED

Abstract

Dry skin is often treated with hydrophilic and/or lipophilic moisturizers. Hydrophilic moisturizers must penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) deeply to function properly, whereas lipophilic moisturizers should remain in the upper SC layers. In this study, both types of moisturizers were applied on volunteers for 3 h, after which the relative amount of moisturizer and the water distribution in the SC were determined using attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy in combination with tape-stripping. The results show that while hydrophilic moisturizers penetrate much more readily than lipophilic moisturizers, the latter are abundantly present in the upper regions of the SC. It was also observed that a 3-h treatment with lipophilic moisturizer did not result in increased water levels in the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers retained water where they are located. The results suggest that upon prolonged application, adequate amounts of moisturizer can be obtained in those regions where they may cause moisturization in the central part of the SC. However, a single application of 3 h is probably too short to exert increased hydration as measured with ATR-FTIR.

Authors+Show Affiliations

Leiden/Amsterdam Center for Drug Research, Division of Drug Delivery Technology, Gorlaeus Laboratories, Leiden University, Leiden, The Netherlands.No affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info available

Pub Type(s)

Journal Article
Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't

Language

eng

PubMed ID

19555376

Citation

Caussin, Julia, et al. "Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Moisturizers Have Similar Penetration Profiles but Different Effects On SC Water Distribution in Vivo." Experimental Dermatology, vol. 18, no. 11, 2009, pp. 954-61.
Caussin J, Rozema E, Gooris GS, et al. Hydrophilic and lipophilic moisturizers have similar penetration profiles but different effects on SC water distribution in vivo. Exp Dermatol. 2009;18(11):954-61.
Caussin, J., Rozema, E., Gooris, G. S., Wiechers, J. W., Pavel, S., & Bouwstra, J. A. (2009). Hydrophilic and lipophilic moisturizers have similar penetration profiles but different effects on SC water distribution in vivo. Experimental Dermatology, 18(11), 954-61. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.00881.x
Caussin J, et al. Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Moisturizers Have Similar Penetration Profiles but Different Effects On SC Water Distribution in Vivo. Exp Dermatol. 2009;18(11):954-61. PubMed PMID: 19555376.
* Article titles in AMA citation format should be in sentence-case
TY - JOUR T1 - Hydrophilic and lipophilic moisturizers have similar penetration profiles but different effects on SC water distribution in vivo. AU - Caussin,Julia, AU - Rozema,Evelien, AU - Gooris,Gert S, AU - Wiechers,Johann W, AU - Pavel,Stan, AU - Bouwstra,Joke A, Y1 - 2009/06/25/ PY - 2009/6/27/entrez PY - 2009/6/27/pubmed PY - 2010/1/23/medline SP - 954 EP - 61 JF - Experimental dermatology JO - Exp Dermatol VL - 18 IS - 11 N2 - Dry skin is often treated with hydrophilic and/or lipophilic moisturizers. Hydrophilic moisturizers must penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) deeply to function properly, whereas lipophilic moisturizers should remain in the upper SC layers. In this study, both types of moisturizers were applied on volunteers for 3 h, after which the relative amount of moisturizer and the water distribution in the SC were determined using attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy in combination with tape-stripping. The results show that while hydrophilic moisturizers penetrate much more readily than lipophilic moisturizers, the latter are abundantly present in the upper regions of the SC. It was also observed that a 3-h treatment with lipophilic moisturizer did not result in increased water levels in the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers retained water where they are located. The results suggest that upon prolonged application, adequate amounts of moisturizer can be obtained in those regions where they may cause moisturization in the central part of the SC. However, a single application of 3 h is probably too short to exert increased hydration as measured with ATR-FTIR. SN - 1600-0625 UR - https://www.unboundmedicine.com/medline/citation/19555376/Hydrophilic_and_lipophilic_moisturizers_have_similar_penetration_profiles_but_different_effects_on_SC_water_distribution_in_vivo_ L2 - https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.00881.x DB - PRIME DP - Unbound Medicine ER -