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Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009 Dec; 8(4):260-6.JC

Abstract

OBJECTIVES

N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine (Sepiwhite), N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine), a reported alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) receptor antagonist, has been observed to reduce melanin production in cultured melanocytes. In other testing, niacinamide has been found to inhibit melanosome transfer in cultured cells and to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmented spots in clinical studies. Since these two agents function by different mechanisms, we conducted two studies to determine if their combination is more effective than niacinamide alone in reducing facial hyperpigmentation.

METHODS

Two double-blind, 10-week (2-week washout + 8-week treatment), left-right randomized, split-face clinical studies were conducted. In one, two groups of Japanese women applied one of two pairs of test emulsion formulations: a vehicle control and a 5% niacinamide formulation (n= 40), or a 5% niacinamide and a 5% niacinamide plus 1%N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine formulation (n = 40). Each formulation was applied to the randomly assigned side of the face. In the second study, Caucasian women applied one of three emulsions: vehicle control, 5% niacinamide formulation, or combination 5% niacinamide plus 1%N-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine formulation to the randomly assigned side of the face (n = approximately 60 treatment sites per formulation). In both studies, hyperpigmented spots were evaluated at weeks 4 and 8 by quantitative image analysis.

RESULTS

In both studies, the combination formulation was significantly more effective than the vehicle and the 5% niacinamide formulation in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

The combination of 5% niacinamide and 1%N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine is an effective anti-aging technology for use on facial skin.

Authors+Show Affiliations

The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, USA.No affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info available

Pub Type(s)

Comparative Study
Journal Article
Randomized Controlled Trial
Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't

Language

eng

PubMed ID

19958429

Citation

Bissett, Donald L., et al. "Reduction in the Appearance of Facial Hyperpigmentation By Topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and Its Combination With Niacinamide." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 8, no. 4, 2009, pp. 260-6.
Bissett DL, Robinson LR, Raleigh PS, et al. Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009;8(4):260-6.
Bissett, D. L., Robinson, L. R., Raleigh, P. S., Miyamoto, K., Hakozaki, T., Li, J., & Kelm, G. R. (2009). Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 8(4), 260-6. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2009.00470.x
Bissett DL, et al. Reduction in the Appearance of Facial Hyperpigmentation By Topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and Its Combination With Niacinamide. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009;8(4):260-6. PubMed PMID: 19958429.
* Article titles in AMA citation format should be in sentence-case
TY - JOUR T1 - Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide. AU - Bissett,Donald L, AU - Robinson,Larry R, AU - Raleigh,Patricia S, AU - Miyamoto,Kukizo, AU - Hakozaki,Tomohiro, AU - Li,Jim, AU - Kelm,Gary R, PY - 2009/12/5/entrez PY - 2009/12/5/pubmed PY - 2010/3/23/medline SP - 260 EP - 6 JF - Journal of cosmetic dermatology JO - J Cosmet Dermatol VL - 8 IS - 4 N2 - OBJECTIVES: N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine (Sepiwhite), N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine), a reported alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) receptor antagonist, has been observed to reduce melanin production in cultured melanocytes. In other testing, niacinamide has been found to inhibit melanosome transfer in cultured cells and to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmented spots in clinical studies. Since these two agents function by different mechanisms, we conducted two studies to determine if their combination is more effective than niacinamide alone in reducing facial hyperpigmentation. METHODS: Two double-blind, 10-week (2-week washout + 8-week treatment), left-right randomized, split-face clinical studies were conducted. In one, two groups of Japanese women applied one of two pairs of test emulsion formulations: a vehicle control and a 5% niacinamide formulation (n= 40), or a 5% niacinamide and a 5% niacinamide plus 1%N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine formulation (n = 40). Each formulation was applied to the randomly assigned side of the face. In the second study, Caucasian women applied one of three emulsions: vehicle control, 5% niacinamide formulation, or combination 5% niacinamide plus 1%N-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine formulation to the randomly assigned side of the face (n = approximately 60 treatment sites per formulation). In both studies, hyperpigmented spots were evaluated at weeks 4 and 8 by quantitative image analysis. RESULTS: In both studies, the combination formulation was significantly more effective than the vehicle and the 5% niacinamide formulation in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks. CONCLUSIONS: The combination of 5% niacinamide and 1%N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine is an effective anti-aging technology for use on facial skin. SN - 1473-2165 UR - https://www.unboundmedicine.com/medline/citation/19958429/Reduction_in_the_appearance_of_facial_hyperpigmentation_by_topical_N_undecyl_10_enoyl_L_phenylalanine_and_its_combination_with_niacinamide_ L2 - https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2009.00470.x DB - PRIME DP - Unbound Medicine ER -