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Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Aug; 35(4):402-10.IJ

Abstract

OBJECTIVES

As the 'Dry Skin Cycle' produces continuous deterioration, cosmetic xerosis (flaky, dry skin) is one of the major concerns to most consumers. The purpose of this study was to investigate the moisturizing effect of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion components. There are numerous types of oils, waxes, polyols and surfactants used as ingredients in skincare products. However, the moisturizing effect of each ingredient and understanding each use to make an effective moisturizing products are still not well understood.

METHODS

To provide answers to these questions, we investigated the moisturizing effect of widely used 41 components (four different classes) in a simple O/W emulsion using capacitance methods. 106 different single oils, and combinations of oil with oil, wax, humectants, and surfactant were formulated and tested.

RESULTS

In this study, we found that most of the O/W emulsion components had hydration effects on the skin. (i) The average relative water content increase (RWCI) rate of a single oil-based emulsion was 11.8 ± 5.2% (SE) and 7.9 ± 6.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (ii) An oil combination emulsion showed an average RWCI rate similar to that of a single oil-based emulsion, 12.6 ± 6.0% (SE) and 12.1 ± 6.4% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (iii) A combination of waxes with oil showed an average RWCI rate of 16 ± 5.6% (SE) and 12.4 ± 4.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (iv) Humectant combinations showed the highest average RWCI rate 28 ± 7.3% (SE) and 22.2 ± 7.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (v) Surfactant combinations had an average RWCI of 10.8 ± 4.5% (SE) and 6.0 ± 4.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively.

CONCLUSION

Interestingly, it was difficult to find moisturizing power differences among samples in the same group. Only the humectants group showed significant differences among samples. Glycerine and urea showed significant skin hydration effects compared with other humectants. We also found a significant moisturizing effect by analysing the chemical functional groups; amide class had a higher hydration effect than betaines and disaccharides in humectants combination.

Authors+Show Affiliations

Amorepacific R&D Center, Skin Research Institute, 314-1, Bora-dong, Yongin-si 446-729, Korea.No affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info availableNo affiliation info available

Pub Type(s)

Journal Article
Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't

Language

eng

PubMed ID

23621673

Citation

Jeong, C B., et al. "Analysis of Electrical Property Changes of Skin By Oil-in-water Emulsion Components." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 35, no. 4, 2013, pp. 402-10.
Jeong CB, Han JY, Cho JC, et al. Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013;35(4):402-10.
Jeong, C. B., Han, J. Y., Cho, J. C., Suh, K. D., & Nam, G. W. (2013). Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(4), 402-10. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12059
Jeong CB, et al. Analysis of Electrical Property Changes of Skin By Oil-in-water Emulsion Components. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013;35(4):402-10. PubMed PMID: 23621673.
* Article titles in AMA citation format should be in sentence-case
TY - JOUR T1 - Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components. AU - Jeong,C B, AU - Han,J Y, AU - Cho,J C, AU - Suh,K D, AU - Nam,G W, Y1 - 2013/06/07/ PY - 2012/05/17/received PY - 2013/04/20/accepted PY - 2013/4/30/entrez PY - 2013/4/30/pubmed PY - 2014/1/28/medline KW - corneometer KW - oil-in-water emulsion KW - poliol KW - relative water content increase rate KW - relative water contents SP - 402 EP - 10 JF - International journal of cosmetic science JO - Int J Cosmet Sci VL - 35 IS - 4 N2 - OBJECTIVES: As the 'Dry Skin Cycle' produces continuous deterioration, cosmetic xerosis (flaky, dry skin) is one of the major concerns to most consumers. The purpose of this study was to investigate the moisturizing effect of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion components. There are numerous types of oils, waxes, polyols and surfactants used as ingredients in skincare products. However, the moisturizing effect of each ingredient and understanding each use to make an effective moisturizing products are still not well understood. METHODS: To provide answers to these questions, we investigated the moisturizing effect of widely used 41 components (four different classes) in a simple O/W emulsion using capacitance methods. 106 different single oils, and combinations of oil with oil, wax, humectants, and surfactant were formulated and tested. RESULTS: In this study, we found that most of the O/W emulsion components had hydration effects on the skin. (i) The average relative water content increase (RWCI) rate of a single oil-based emulsion was 11.8 ± 5.2% (SE) and 7.9 ± 6.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (ii) An oil combination emulsion showed an average RWCI rate similar to that of a single oil-based emulsion, 12.6 ± 6.0% (SE) and 12.1 ± 6.4% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (iii) A combination of waxes with oil showed an average RWCI rate of 16 ± 5.6% (SE) and 12.4 ± 4.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (iv) Humectant combinations showed the highest average RWCI rate 28 ± 7.3% (SE) and 22.2 ± 7.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (v) Surfactant combinations had an average RWCI of 10.8 ± 4.5% (SE) and 6.0 ± 4.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. CONCLUSION: Interestingly, it was difficult to find moisturizing power differences among samples in the same group. Only the humectants group showed significant differences among samples. Glycerine and urea showed significant skin hydration effects compared with other humectants. We also found a significant moisturizing effect by analysing the chemical functional groups; amide class had a higher hydration effect than betaines and disaccharides in humectants combination. SN - 1468-2494 UR - https://www.unboundmedicine.com/medline/citation/23621673/Analysis_of_electrical_property_changes_of_skin_by_oil_in_water_emulsion_components_ L2 - https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12059 DB - PRIME DP - Unbound Medicine ER -